These are Italian made wholecuts, using full grain calf leather Being a wholecut, each shoe is made from a single piece of high quality calf leather, so there has to be no defects. There is just a single joining piece at the back. It’s a very elegant, dressy, formal shoe, ideal for work and special occasions. Black is a very versatile and classic colour. The shoes would work well both at the office and special occasions such as weddings and black tie events.
The shoe has closed lacing that makes it the oxford a formal shoe. There is is a re-inforcing stay stitch for strength.
Looking inside, we see the Thomas Bird branding, embossed into a piece of calf leather, foam backed for added comfort. The top line is neat, with no raw edges, as we taper or ‘skyve’ the edge, then fold and stitch it. We use a genuine full leather insole. Inside the heel, the reverse counter, we use suede to stop your heel slipping. We use flat, waxed laces with are anti slip to keep your bows tied up.
What you can’t see are the two stiffeners, between the calf upper and lining. There is one in the toe and another at the back around the heel. These are important to keep the shoe looking good as it ages, and we use longer, high quality stiffeners to achieve this.
The sole is stitched onto the leather upper with a traditional Italian method called blake stitching This is an in-channel, lock stitching technique, so even if one stitch is worn or breaks, the other stitches will be still securely locked in place. And being stitched, the sole can be easily replaced when it eventually wears. We prefer blake stitching to goodyear welting as we think it produces a lighter, more elegant and flexible shoe, with a neater, less visible edge. To prolong the sole's life, we use a middle rubber insert for added wear and better grip.
There is a 25mm genuine leather stacked and pinned heel, held together with 4 brass pins. There is a rubber half piece, again for better wear and grip, that can be easily replaced when worn. There is a ‘gentleman’s corner’, a small bevel on the heel that reduces snagging of the heel on your trousers.
High quality materials, superb craftsmanship, many years experience and attention to detail - our black wholecut, is a beautifully made high quality shoe, that with care should give you many years of enjoyment.
Read more on our blog about styling wholecut shoes.
We also have a range of black accessories, including belts, wallet, cardholder and shoe cream.
Photo: @m_hoye wearing them with grey pinstripe trousers and blue suits.
We want you to be happy with your purchase so if you have any questions, please let us know.
Free delivery usually takes a week if we are shipping to the US and overseas, and 2-3 days if we are shipping to the EU. UK delivery is normally next day.
If you want to return your purchase we offer a simple and subsidised international returns label for just £25. UK returns are free.Contact US
Thomas Bird fits fairly true to size. If in doubt, go half a size smaller. This size guide shows how EU sizes compare to US and UK sizing.
Not sure? Please ask our advice and tell us what you normally wear and we'll be happy to help. Ask us.