Which is best - Blake Stitched or Goodyear Welted?
Which is better? The Beatles or the Stones? Ferrari or Aston Martin? There is a bigger debate that rages on:
Blake Stitched or Goodyear Welted?
This subject is discussed a lot on forums and we get asked the question too. There can be strong opinions.
But is it important? Should you buy or not buy a shoe because it's one or the other?
Maybe we should first ask, 'What's the difference between a Blake Stitched and Goodyear Welted shoe?'.
That might be a better question.
Which is better for you depends on various factors - some factual or technical, and a lot just based on a long standing personal preference or opinion. And maybe what your Grandad told you. Mine gets a mention later.
In this article we will try to unpick the myths, history, differences, and pros and cons of each.
Photo: Two wingtip brogue oxfords - top goodyear welted, bottom blake stitched
The basics - why were Goodyear welted and Blake stitch invented?
Both Goodyear welted and Blake are traditional methods used to stitch a shoe's sole to its 'upper' or main part of the shoe. Historically this had always been done by hand which was a time consuming process.
Both techniques were introduced around the same time in the mid 1800s. New machinery was designed and built to speed up shoe production, increase throughput and lower costs.
Lyman Reed Blake in the USA invented and received a patent for his machine in 1958.
A little later, in 1862, also in the USA, Auguste Destouy invented his first machine, to be further improved and then patented in 1875 by Charles Goodyear Jr.
This also coincided with the Industrial Revolution and society changes. Shoe making had literally been a 'cottage industry' with workers working in their homes to the introduction of modern machinery and people working together in a factory.
Photo: Blake stitching at Thomas Bird factory
Are they still relevant today?
Most dress shoes made these days (like sneakers or trainers) actually use neither technique. They instead use strong, modern glues to attach the sole to the upper.
This is faster and cheaper to do and favoured in mass market factories such as the far east. Stitching takes more time and skill, and adds cost to the production process.
But it is much better in the long run, in our opinion, to have a true stitched sole. The shoe can be more easily resoled when worn and the shoe will therefore last longer. Like in other walks of life, true cost of ownership also depends on how many years you get to enjoy and use a product. A quality shoe should last years.
So is stitching a sign of quality?
Well it should be. However some brands go for the look over the real thing. They will use glue to attach the sole and then add cosmetic stitching just for the aesthetic look. The stitching may even come pre-done as part of the sole unit even before it is attached. It may look traditional but has no real value.
Where in the world?
Goodyear welted shoes are mostly associated with traditional British shoe makers. Some factories in India and Spain are now using it, to get that British look. Blake stitching has more widely used among higher end Italian shoe makers.
The key difference - the welt
Goodyear welting uses a long strip of leather, called a welt, right round the shoe, that is first stitched to the shoes upper, and is in then stitched to the shoes sole.
Photo : Goodyear welted - shows the welt being stitched onto the upper.
With Blake stitching, there is no welt. The sole is stitched straight through the sole and and insole into the upper
Why use a welt?
The original idea back in the 1800s was to have two sets of stitches, to separate the stitches from the sole and the upper, in case water (eg British rain) soaked up the stitching through the sole into the upper. This seemed a good idea at at the time, with the materials used eg leather soles and natural cotton thread that allowed water to 'wick' or travel up it. It also seemed more sensible to some in wetter climates like Britain.
So why not always use a welt?
As Blake stitching machines improved ( to become 'Blake Rapid') - the needles became thinner, meaning smaller holes, and started to use synthetic, waterproof thread that did not allow water to 'wick' up into the upper. Also many shoe makers started moving from leather towards waterproof rubber soles.
Goodyear welted - the downside
Using a welt adds weight and bulk, both in leather and the extra filler required. It also adds to the cost. It can also makes the shoe less flexible, and harder to break in.
Using a welt also meant that the sole sticks out more so that it can be stitched to the welt. The edge of the sole is more visible than on a blake stitched sole, for example when you look down on your shoes.
Photo: Two wingtip brogue oxfords - left blake stitched, right goodyear welted
While this may not bother Goodyear welted fans, others preferred the slimmer profile, neater edge and greater flexibility of the Blake stitched shoe.
What if the stitches break - will the sole fall off?
Both techniques use similar techniques called chain or lock stitching. Two separate needles work together to interlink or lock the stitches from top and bottom. So if one stitch did wear and break, all the others stay tightly locked together.
When Goodyear welted is best
If you like a shoe to be very strong, stiff, durable and waterproof, prefer a leather sole and want to wear them in wetter conditions, then Goodyear welted may be the way to go.
When Blake stitched is best
If you like a shoe that is a little lighter, more flexible and comfortable, with a cleaner edge and silhouette, then Blake stitched is the best way to go. Even if you are concerned about wetter weather, the modern narrower stitching, waterproof threads and even full rubber sole options all help to make your shoes more weatherproof.
Photo: Blake stitched shoes from above - the soles are only just visible.
So which is the winner - Blake Stitched or Goodyear Welted?
There is no right or wrong. That's the point.
As a slight digression, my grandad worked as a cabinet maker, making by hand lovely furniture with dovetail joints. That was a quality sign, but for a purpose, as it made for strong drawers. But machinery, dowels, screws and modern glues came in and changed the industry. Dovetails are probably now more about the look now than their original function.
So pick the shoe you like, whether Goodyear welted or Blake stitched. They are both good signs of quality and tradition, and both resoleable.
The main thing is, do you really like the shoe?
The styling, details, look, quality of leather, colour, craftsmanship, finishing, value for money - that's what is most important.
Thomas Bird
