Buckingham
Derby Blucher Black

Sale price Price £260.00 Regular price Unit price  per 

"Perfect as a dress shoe - you see and feel the quality"


Buckingham is a stylish blucher based on the same last as our Benson wholecut. It has the open lacings of a derby but without the derby seam, and creates that clean, uninterrupted wholecut look. In classic black leather, this smart shoe is comfortable and versatile and complements any suit beautifully.

  • Relaxed derby/gibson design with open lacing
  • More comfortable than oxfords for men with a higher instep
  • Full grain calf leather for softness and longevity
  • Hand-dyed black finish, polished and burnished
  • Hard-wearing Blake-stitched leather/rubber sole for added grip
  • Full calf leather lining for comfort and to absorb moisture
  • Made in Italy by artisan shoemakers
how our Italian shoes are made Thomas Bird fitting advice: Buckingham
"Fits true to size. The Derby lace up opens out to accomodate a slightly higher than standard instep if required. If you are inbetween sizes, then we normally recommend dropping down to the nearest whole size."
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£260.00
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Size Chart

Thomas Bird fits fairly true to size.  Not sure?  Please tell us what size and brands you normally wear and we'll be happy to help. Contact us.

Europe UK USA CM
39 6 7 24
40 6.5 7.5 25
41 7 8 26
42 8 9 27
43 9 10 28
44 10 11 29
45 11 12 29.5
46 12 13 30.5
47 12.5 13.5 31
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Who is wearing Thomas Bird?

Product details

Hand finished black patina

These are Italian crafted, black, bluchers, made using full grain, premium calf leather.

The blucher is similar in some ways to a derby but a little more dressy. They have the open lacing of a derby, however the facings are stitched directly onto the vamp, not onto the quarter.

This gives Buckingham an elegant dressy look, similar in shape and appearance to our Benson wholecut. This may appeal to people that want a slightly less formal look than a wholecut. It also may fit better on men with a slightly higher instep, as the lacings open up more and allow more flexibility than the closed lacing of an oxford.

Black is very versatile colour. It goes well with a neutral suit and pairs very well with blue and navy. The shoes would work well both at the office and special occasions such as weddings.

Craftsmanship/attention to detail

Looking inside, we see the Thomas Bird branding, embossed into a piece of calf leather, foam backed for added comfort. There is also a full calf leather lining. The top line is neat, with no raw edges, as we taper or ‘skyve’ the edge, then fold and stitch it. We use a genuine full leather insole. Inside the heel, the reverse counter, we use suede to stop your heel slipping. We use flat, waxed laces with are anti slip to keep your bows neatly tied up.

What you can’t see are the two stiffeners, between the calf upper and lining. There is one in the toe and another at the back around the heel. These are important to keep the shoe looking good as it ages, and we use longer, high quality stiffeners to achieve this.

Stitched leather sole

stitched sole

The sole is stitched onto the shoe's leather upper with a traditional Italian method called blake stitching Th is an in-channel, lock stitching technique, so even if one stitch is worn or breaks, the other stitches will be still securely locked in place. And being stitched, the sole can be easily replaced when it eventually wears. We prefer blake stitching to goodyear welting as we think it produces a lighter, more elegant and flexible shoe, with a neater, less visible edge. To prolong the sole's life, we use a middle rubber insert for added wear and better grip.

Stacked leather heel

stacked leather heel

There is a 25mm genuine leather stacked and pinned heel, held together with 4 brass pins. There is a rubber half piece, again for better wear and grip, that can be easily replaced when worn.

High quality materials, superb craftsmanship, many years experience and attention to detail - our black Buckingham blucher is a beautifully made high quality shoe, that with care should give you many years of enjoyment.

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